Companion Way Flange and Rudder Work

Companion Way Flange and New Epoxy

This past week or so, I have been working on some little tasks, but I guess that's what the whole build is about. A bunch of little tasks.  I had already glued up the companion-way flange a while back and coated it with a few coats of epoxy. I finally decided to glue it to the companion way opening. For the epoxy part of the job, I decided to try out some new epoxy in a tube that I purchased from Jamestown Distributors.  What I purchased was the TotalBoat Thixo Wood 2:1 Expoxy System.  I found it difficult at first since the caulking gun I had was not strong enough. I ordered a heavy duty one from them as well and it work like a charm.  Below is a picture of the gun and epoxy. You purchase the tips and depose of them after each use.  Only one application per tip. There is a top that screws back on, so you can reuse, which I did.  I have used it a few times and are very satisfied. The only issue I would have is the cost. 

Below is the flange epoxied on. 

This is after the initial glue up and an extra coat of epoxy. 

For the companion way hood, there is a portion that I didn't fiberglass. The manual really doesn't show it or talk about it, but I decided it was easy to do.  You can see the portion in the picture below. I will do the other side as well. 

Rudder

I used the caulking gun with epoxy to do the fillets on the rudder.  I was impressed on the mix consistency of epoxy. It made very smooth fillets. I wish I would have done this on the epoxy fillets for the bulkheads, but it wouldn't have been cost effective. 

Fillets on Rudder

After I did the fillets, I applied fiberglass to both sides of the rudder and down onto the bottom portion across the fillet. This should make that joint very strong. 

Epoxy applied with 1 coat. 

When I was installing the blocking on the seat backs, I went ahead and drilled the holes for the boom gallows. I then covered them up with the seat back top.  To get the hole cut, I drilled up from the inside and created a hole. I then used my router with a cut-off bit and just went around the hole. 

I have also been coating it with additional epoxy as well as the other holes for the hatches and dorade vents that I recently cut. 

Both starboard and port holes ready for the boom gallow poles. 

Still planning on the flip. I purchased some moving blankets and need to get some old tires from some place. Will try to get this done in a couple weeks. I have plenty of tasks to keep me busy.

Cutting Dorade Vents and Hatch Openings

I decided to do some of the smaller tasks this past week.  I started off with the Dorade Vents. I purchased the hardware kit from CLC, so I am use the Dorade Vents and hatches that they provided.

For the dorade vents, I tried to establish a center method of measuring, so I can have both sides looking the same.  Below is the port dorade box hole after I drilled it. I used a 3" hole saw bit.  I drilled a pilot hole for the center and then used the hole saw bit. Not very difficult, just takes a while to find the center and you are alway scared about drilling into your boat.

The starboard dorade vent dry fitted. It will be install once the hull is painted. 

Port side hole drilled and vent dry fitted. 

I made a pattern out of cardboard for the hatches. I then measured/traced on both sides and cut them out with a saber saw. I then had to use a rasp and hand saw to get them to the final shape. I plan on coating the edges of these holes and the dorade holes with epoxy for water proofing.

In preparation for the plywood flange around the companion way opening, per the manual I used a rasp to angle the edge, so that water will not stand there. I already have the flange ready. I will probably glue that this week. 

I rough cut the rub rails. I still need to fill the screw holes with epoxy and need to do some sanding and the final shaping. Still a lot to do on them.

I think the rails turned out pretty good. At least they are not bumpy!! 😀 

Next up: I have been putting off sanding, but I know I will need to get the top part of the hull sanded. I will be working on that some this week. I am also planning on flipping the hull and figuring out what my plans for that will be and who I can get to help. 

Rub Rails and Rudder

Sorry about the delay in updates, I have been busy with normal life and yard work!

I have been working on the boat where I can and have made a lot of progress on the Rub Rails. As of today, I have 2 of the layers attached on both sides. I used the timber kit, so the rails are made out of mahogany. For the most part, they are pretty easy to bend. The first layer of rails, I did use the hot water and rags to pull them in. To help, I used a tie-down ratchet strap to force the last few inches. I also dry fitted each and used screws to hold in place. I used little blocks of wood as to not damage the rails.  Both of these tricks I found from other builders blogs.

This is the port side with rags soaked in hot water.

Too get that last couple of inches I used the ratched strap below.

Below is the layer epoxied in place. I used about 4-5 ounces of thickened epoxy using cabosil. I brushed it on with a chip brush. I was worried about doing this by myself, but during the dry fit, I made little marks on the wood to realign. With the dry fit, all the holes are pre-drilled, so I just had to align things. I used some small pieces of rope to hold one end, while I worked on the other. It is manageable with one person, but if you have a helper, that would definitely work better.

Picture below is of the 2nd layer done on the Starboard side and it looks like I am working on the port side. I only did one side at a time, since I wanted that little piece of wood sticking out to hook the ratchet to.

This is the last layer below dry fitted a couple of nights ago. I am going to epoxy it this Sunday.

I also managed to epoxy the bottom piece of the rudder on. I tried some new epoxy in a caulk gun ready made that I got from Jamestown Distributors. The gun was not strong enough to get the epoxy out and I had to really struggle. I ordered another heavy duty gun to use, so hopefully that works better. It was something I wanted to try, but I think my final opinion will be that it is pricy for what you get, but the decision is out. 

Also on the bottom piece, be sure to notice the direction it is supposed to go on. I had pre-drilled the bottom piece on in the wrong direction and just caught it when I was applying the epoxy. Almost a big oops!