Monday, October 23, 2017

Installing Seatbacks!

Well I still seem to be working all the time at my day job and going out of town on trips, so the boat building time has taken a hit. I did get some time this past week and weekend to install the seatbacks.

I had a brad gun that I have never used and bought as a kit many years back. I decided to order some stainless steal brads and use them to hold the seatbacks in place.  I looked at the local big box stores, but they didn't seem to carry any stainless steal brads. There are probably other places you can get them, but I purchased them from Danow Fastening. I bought 2 sizes, but wound up using the 3/4" inch. I would shoot them in at an angle, since they will go through both the seatbacks and framing. This is only an issue in the locker area. You don't want them going through and cutting your hand at a later date. I was very happy with the results and it was a heck of a lot easier than using temporary screws. The brads will be left in.


There have been a lot of little projects before installing the seatbacks that I have done in previous posts (gallows pole base and painting), but I was finally ready to install. I mixed up a big pastry bag of thickened epoxy and spread it out on all the seatback framing. I then installed the seatbacks and used temporary clamps to hold it in place. It took no longer than a minute to shoot a bunch of brads into them to hold down.

Below are a few pictures.


Also note the hole already drilled, coated in epoxy for the gallows pole. I can install the cap and cut out with a router at a later date.


If you look closely at the picture below you will see a little round hole in the bottom next to the transom. This is where I pre-drilled a drain hole for water to drain from the locker. I left the framing short, so it is a natural place for water to drain through.  Thanks to Jeff "Old Soul" for another one of his ideas! 


Next up will be installing the roof deck. I have already finished planning the cleats and will do a quick check this week before installing the deck. I also need to drill the drain holes in the dorade boxes and cut the holes in bulkhead 2 that go into the dorade boxes. I bought inspection plates last week. 


Monday, October 9, 2017

Roof Cleat work, Dorade Boxes and Gallows Pole


Roof Cleats and Dorade Boxes

I finished epoxying all the roof cleats and have started to use a block plane to get the angles correct to install the roof. I don't have any pictures to show, but I am about 1/2 of the way done. I have been using a hand plane and it is taking some time to do. I plan on using a sander to do the final shaping. 

Below is where I was glueing the blocking to the inside of the Dorade boxes. This will provide something to attach the mooring cleats to at the end of the build. I still need to get a hole saw to cut the hole through bulkhead 2. 

 
Dorade Box Mooring Cleat blocking

In between working on other tasks, I applied 3 coats of epoxy to the underside of the roof. I am thinking if I want this natural or whether to paint it. I still have a little time to decide.




Gallows Pole

I have been thinking a lot about the pole installation for the boom gallows. I purchased the hardware kit from CLC and was concerned about the poles lining up to the flanges that are installed inside the lockers on the seat backs. I figured it would easier to do any work in the locker without the seat backs installed. In my case I was right.  I made a temporary boom out of a 2X4 using the pattern provided.
I then held it up and determined where I should drill the holes for the poles on the blocking I installed.  Per the manual you need to cut off one edge of the flange (see below), so that it will fit properly in the locker.  To do this I tried a cutoff tool on my Dremel tool, but that didn't work very good. I decided to use a hack saw, which was a lot of work, but I got the job done. To hold them I bolted the flanges to a scrap piece of wood, so I had something to clamp down.


Flange bolted to scrap wood. 

End result with edge of flange cut off. 

 I next installed the boom with poles through the new holes that I had drilled in the seat back. Unfortunately, even with the edge cut off of the flange, they did not line up properly. They were not straight vertical. I then decided to cut a small piece of blocking to raise the flange and that did the trick. I then had to sand through the finished painting I had done and then I epoxied the blocks in place. I have already applied multiple coats of epoxy and 2 coats of primer as well as applied epoxy to the inside of the hole I drilled. Once I epoxy the seat back tops, I will just drill a hole from underneath and use a route to expand the 1" hole in the top.


Doing a test fit of the gallows. 

Blocking to raise the flange.  

Hole drilled and flange painted. 
 I will put a couple coats of Brightside top coat on the blocking and then I should be ready to install the seat backs.



Monday, September 25, 2017

More Dorade work, Roof Cleats and Painting

Roof Deck Cleats

This past week after work, I managed to get all the roof deck cleats epoxied to the bulkheads. I made sure I cleaned up any epoxy drips a couple of times. I think they turned out fine. This week I plan to start with the block plane shaping them for the roof deck, which I also glued together with a butt joint.

Roof Cleats epoxied and curing. 



Dorade Boxes
Below are the Dorade Boxes with the roof cleats. I still need to add the blocking on the inside for the mooring cleats that will be installed later on the outside.

Dorade Box cleats epoxied and curing.  



Below may be difficult to see, but I applied some fiberglass tape on the insides of the dorade boxes at the joints as well as a piece of tape on the outside corner. I still need to apply another coat of epoxy to completely wet it out.




Roof Deck Panels
Below is where I epoxied the 2 roof panels together. You use a butt joint, which is basically a piece of 1/4 inch plywood 2 1/2 inches wide. I used some weights to hold it down. 



Painting Lockers
Over the weekend, I was able to apply 2 coats of Interlux Brightside paint to the locker space. I figured it will be easier to paint before installing the seatbacks. I am also considering drilling the holes for the Gallows bars and installing the supports in the lockers. I got the pattern out and I am working on a temporary piece, so I can drill the holes in the correct space.  Below is a picture of the finished painting. I also plan on doing the drain hole for the locker. From looking at other blogs, I can put a hole in the bottom right hand corner next to the transom. I just need to figure out how to do that.


Monday, September 18, 2017

Vacation, Dorade Boxes and Roof Deck Cleats

Building was put on hold for a few weeks while I went to Beaufort NC. Had a great time and did some sailing a couple of days. Had a real interesting day sailing one day in 25 mph winds. Won't do that again! But live and learn.



Dorade Boxes
This past week / weekend I got back to work. I first started on the installing the Dorade Boxes. I cut them to fit and drilled the holes for wires to hold them in place. Nothing difficult about this, but take your time.

Below you can see both the port and starboard boxes with tack welds. In some places I actually did a fillet, but I went back over with larger fillets later on.  You can see the sliding T-Bevel in one of the pictures.  I made sure both sides had the same angle before applying the tack welds. You don't want a lopsided boat! :-)







Below are both boxes with the fillets. I did on both the inside and outside. I am considering what to do on the out facing angle where the two boards come together. There is a fillet on the inside, but I am thinking about applying some fiberglass tape to strengthen the joint.

You cant see in the pictures, but there is an outside drain hold for water that gets caught in the foredeck area. For each Dorade Box there will be a inside and outside drain for water to flow through. I drilled a larger hole and filled it with thickened epoxy on the outside. I will be drilling out a smaller hole in the epoxy later on. I also will need to drill the drain hole in the bottom inside corners. In the picture below the drain hole goes in the bottom left.

Drain hole to go in bottom left. 

Drain hole to go in bottom right on the starboard side. 
Cabin Roof Cleats
Next I decided to the cabin roof cleats. I had a piece of thin board that came in a packing crate for a piece of furniture we bought. I save a lot of stuff like this and it usually comes in handy. I cut the board which was about 1/4 inch thick into strips to use at patterns on the roof cleats.  Below shows 2 of the patterns. I had to use a piece of cardboard to create the pattern for the largest cleat. ( middle)

Patterns for roof cleats. 


I think took the patterns and cut out the cleats using 3/4 inch thick wood. The angle where the roof cleats touch the side cleats is a little tricky, but I took my time and only wasted 1 piece. LOL.

Below are pictures of the cleats doing a dry fit.


Dry fit of cleats in dorade boxes. This will give the roof deck a place to glue to. 



Once I cut out each cleat, I then used a router to do a round-over on the inside edges. The edge that I will see in the cabin. I then took my sander and sanded each piece. Using the bandsaw, you get the marks of the blades, but this was easily taken off. 

Another item I will note is that you don't want to leave the cleats flush with the top edges of the bulkheads. Per the manual you want to have some wood to shave off, so you have the angle correct all the way around. That will be one of my jobs this week once I epoxy them. 


Painting Locker
And yet another one of the jobs I started was painting the lockers. I put two coats of primer in each locker and plan to put 2 coats of Interlux Brightside paint. I wanted to get this done before installing the seat backs. 



I think I had a productive week and it is nice to see things coming along! 

Monday, August 28, 2017

More Seatback work and Flotation


I have been thinking about the storage compartments a lot. I have come to the conclusion that I do want to paint the insides of them before installing the seatbacks. Looking at other PocketShips, some do and some don't. From what I have read epoxy does not hold up with UV light, so I think these do need to be painted.

I also was looking at how water would possibly pool inside them and the need to install drain holes. The manual calls for drain holes along the front, which I will be installing. Looking at the compartment on the inside bottom, there are fillets on 3 sides. Looking at the compartment, both sides and up against the side panels/outside of hull. It looked to me that that the 4th side facing the seatbacks/cockpit was a good place for water to pool and if I didn't get the bottom stringer attached properly, water could find its way in. I decided to put a fillet up against the bottom stringer. This will allow for fillets all the way around on the bottom and hopefully prevent any water damage.

Next up I decided to cut the flotation that goes on inside the seatbacks. I definitely underestimated the time it would take. Not that the task was difficult, but it was a lot of cutting to do. I decided to use this pink insulation from Home Depot. I think total for the boat, I used 2.5  (4 by 8 sheets). I bought Qty 2 - 1" thick and 1 - 2" inch thick. I had some of the plain white that you get in shipping boxes, but that stuff makes a huge mess. The pink insulation makes very little. I used a fine tooth hand saw and cut the pieces to fit. It took a good part of  4 hours to cut all the pieces and wedge them in there. Once I get the seatbacks installed, I plan to wedge some more, so there is no movement. I may get some of that spray-in foam to fill up the empty space.

Port side flotation


Starboard side flotation



Sunday, August 20, 2017

Seatback work and Upper Breasthook

I had to go out of town for work, so I was limited again with personal stuff and not boat building. But I was able to do some odds and ends this past week. I used a router to do the round over on the seat back flanges and that turned out pretty good. I applied two coats of epoxy and plan to do another one before installing.




I also used a router on the upper breasthook and installed it to the bow section. I used 2 bronze screws on both sides and filled with epoxy. 


I also installed the sheer clamps for the decking and cut them off flush with bulkhead #2. 

Sheer Clamps installed. I used 2 bronze 1 1/2 " drilled through the rear cabin bulkhead for support and per the manual. 

This is before I cut them off flush, but they were already glued up.  

I gave the seat back section supports and stringers another coat of epoxy to seal them up.  I should be ready to install the seat backs shortly. 




I also did a lot of sanding inside the cabin and in the bow area before installing the sheer clamps and breasthook. I figured it would be better to get some of this out of the way.

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Seatback Blocking and Doing some Sailing

I don't have much to update this time. We went to a Bed and Breakfast last weekend and did some site seeing and sailed some as well. Happy wife = Happy Boat Shop!

Below is my Hobie Kayak I bought back in 2015 and really prompted me to get into sailing and to build PocketShip. I still have fun sailing it, but can't wait until getting out on the PocketShip.
We went on the Chickahominy River in Virginia right at the James River. Nice sail except for the 50 plus fishing boats in a tournament that kept on flying by me. I wonder when they actually fish. All I see them doing is running up and down the river.

Below is a picture of my Hobie Tandem Island.




I did manage to cut and fit all the blocking and put multiple coats on the wood before installing them.
I installed the port side one night after work and then the starboard side. I'm glad I tested them before applying thickened epoxy with cabosil, because I wrote port and starboard on the wrong ones.  Oops!
So just a reminder to double check things before glueing up!


This is the starboard side all glued in. I used a paper template to cut the notch at the bow block, so that it would cover all the space. I didn't want to install a cleat into a portion that didn't have the blocking below. I cut is out with my bandsaw.




Port side all glued up and clamped.  I also used temporary screws to hold in place. I again cut out the notch on the bow block so it fit properly.



I have more conflicts coming up this weekend with helping my son move, so again time will be limited. I plan on taking my belt sander to the top of the blocking to level out, take a router to the seatback boards and install the floatation. If everything goes well, I may install the seatbacks!